The First Garlic

june 2009 008
I think it’s underappreciated that garlic is as seasonal as any other vegetable. Sure, you can obtain it throughout the year, and personally I’m never without it, but the great dishes of sheer garlic debauchery- aioli, roasted garlic, chicken with 40 cloves of garlic, etc.- were designed to be made with fresh garlic, the kind you harvest in early summer, before it develops the slight (sometimes pronounced) acridness that comes with storage.
I grow three kinds of garlic, and one of them is Chinese Pink, which I get from Territorial Seeds. It’s a nicely flavored hardneck type, and I grow it because it matures fully a month earlier than any other garlic that I’ve grown.

See my earlier posts on green garlic and using the scapes of hardneck garlic for other uses of the maturing garlic plant, but by June the Chinese Pink is mature and I’m ready for some garlic confit. The confit process involves long, slow cooking at low heat in fat, olive oil in this case. The result is soft, mellow, and intensely flavorful without the sharp punch of raw garlic. It will keep in the refrigerator for a good long time as long as you make sure the cloves are well covered with oil.

Click here for the recipe!

Having grown your garlic, the next step is to catch your olive oil. I like Ybarra Extra Virgin from Spain, which I buy in pretty 5-liter cans from The Spanish Table in Santa Fe. It’s my house oil for cooking and confiting.
Next, peel a quart’s worth of garlic cloves. The skin of Chinese Pink is very tight, especially when fresh, and the cloves are very difficult to peel in quantity. So I always separate the cloves and drop them a small handful at a time into boiling water, wait 5-10 seconds, then scoop them out with a big Asian strainer. Cut the root end off each clove with a sharp paring knife, and the skin can now be slipped off with your fingers. Do be aware that your homegrown garlic will have actual dirt on the skins, unlike the pristine heads in grocery stores, so when you’re done skinning the cloves, wash them in a strainer and rub them lightly in your hands to remove any remaining dirt.
Once you have your quart of peeled cloves, put them in a saucepan with a teaspoon or two of sea salt and enough olive oil to cover them by at least one inch. More oil is better, since there are lots of uses for the flavored oil. Cook over very low heat, using a heat diffuser if needed, for about 90 minutes. Start checking after an hour, and turn the heat down if you see the pan bubbling vigoroously at any point. A slow simmer is what you want. Start checking after one hour. To test, scoop out one clove and after cooling it a minute, try to mash it between your fingers. You want the cloves to look whole in the pot, but mash readily with light pressure, with no hard core. When that stage is reached, spoon the cloves carefully into a clean quart canning jar, pour in oil to fill the jar, cover, and cool. Once cool, it can store in the refrigerator for a long time. Don’t keep it at room temperature. Any leftover oil should be saved to flavor salad dressings and aioli. Scoop out the cloves to smear on grilled bread (a favorite summer snack), season pasta, enrich sauces, or in general to use wherever a mellow, sweet flavor of garlic will enhance a dish.
This pasta is a good quick summer dinner:
For 2 very generous servings or 4 first-course servings:
1/2 lb. whole wheat linguine
6-8 cloves garlic confit, depending on size.
1/3 cup oil from confitted garlic
2 anchovy fillets, chopped to a paste, or 1 tablespoon colatura, or a generous pinch of sea salt
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 cup best Parmesan, grated
Cook the pasta in plenty of rapidly boiling salted water. While it is cooking, mash the garlic in a small bowl with a spoon, and stir in the oil, anchovies or colatura or salt, and the chile flakes. When the pasta is cooked to your taste (personally I like whole wheat pasta cooked a minute longer than white pasta), drain it but reserve half a cup of the cooking water. Return the linguine to the pan, stir in the garlic mixture, adda little of the reserved water if the sauce seems too dry, and toss in the cheese. Serve immediately on hot plates with a little extra cheese if desired.

3 responses to this post.

  1. […] Vera (not the hot kind) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper About 2 teaspoons sea salt 1/2 cup garlic confit containing 7-8 crushed cloves plus oil, OR 6 cloves of garlic finely minced and mixed into 1/2 cup […]

    Reply

  2. Posted by Janet Lanier on December 16, 2010 at 3:30 pm

    You have truley inspired me. Can I get any help in south Florida to start with becoming an Urban Homesteader? Have have put about 7 trees in the ground this past year ( lemon, grapefruit, orange, 2 alvocado’s and I have a couple of Mango’s and a starfruit. I do basil, and have tried with tomato and pepper plants but nothing close to what you have done. I would love to get a few chickens however I don’t think the city of Boca Raton would pass, which really annoys me. I think wwe should be able to feed our families with safe healthly food. Other than moving how can one get started with planting out their yards.
    You have done a wonderful job…

    Reply

    • Posted by wooddogs3 on December 29, 2010 at 7:09 pm

      Via the Internet, there’s help anywhere. South Florida is such a specialized climate that it’s worth trying to find experienced people in your immediate area. Local gardening clubs can be helpful, and I would also check out http://www.kitchengardeners.org, which has a lot of local and regional groups in the “groups” section. If you don’t find one for your area, start a discussion thread about “south Florida gardening” and ask your questions. The nice thing about Kitchen Gardeners is that the people on it are oriented toward food production rather than purely decorative gardening, but many local garden clubs have a vegetable gardening subgroup. Good luck, and have fun!

      Reply

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